ESSAY OF QA DEVELOPMENT QA Development of Garments Manufacturing Author Mustafijur Rahman QA, Technical Services Specialist & Consultant LSSGB, ISO QMS 9001:2015, QM, OM, PM Certified Mail:mustafijcertifiedaudit@gmail.com Mobile: +8801954577058 (WhatsApp/IMO) LinkedIn: MUSTAFIJUR RAHMAN TABLE OF CONTENTS EMPHASIS 1. Introduction of QA ..................................2 2. Importance of QAD in Garment Industries 2 3. QA Definition .........................................3 4. QA auditor Standard working process .......3 5. QA Quality ............................................5 6. QA Development Skills.............................6 7. QA Training for development ....................9 8. Store QA ...............................................9 9. Cutting QA ...........................................10 10.Sewing QA ..........................................11 11.Finishing QA ........................................12 12.DQA & Importance of DQA ....................12 13.Rules of leadership of QA development ..14 14.Conclusion ..........................................16 2 EMPHASIS 1. INTRODUCTION OF QA QA means Quality Assurance. QA auditor assures quality by developing working process by doing root cause analyses and problem solving. QA activities starts before QC activities. Firstly QA auditor assured Quality then QC control Quality. QA is most important than QC. Only QA can develop and ensure garments quality in every stage before Goods making to finishing. By assuring quality on fabric, trims, accessories, cutting, sewing, finishing & working Process etc., QA auditor can assure timely shipment, customers satisfied Goods, make standard working environment, reduce costing etc. If this department are weak, they can not do timely shipment, they gets claim again and again due to produce bad Goods, they do lots of rejection and wastage and also sometime shipment canceled due to big mistakes. 2. IMPORTANCE OF QAD IN GARMENTS MANUFACTURING QAD ( Quality Assurance Department) is the part of Garments Manufacturing. without QAD, Garments manufacturing factory do not produce standard Goods because QA Auditor assure Goods manufactures condition before starting production such as Store QA assures fabric, trims and accessories Quality before starts cutting, cutting QA assures shade, GSM, pattern & marker, cut panel measurement, way, check etc. quality before starts sewing. Sewing QA auditor assure stitching, construction, Goods overall appearance, measurements and also reduce defect by root causes analyses, following TDR(Total Defect Reduce) TLS, RFT etc. method. Finally, finishing QA assure quality by conducting 2 hr audit, pre-final, SKU & ratios checking, properly cartooning, barcode and cartoon sticker verification etc. DQA( Dedicated QA) is the another part of QA, they do work like GPQ(Guideline for Production and Quality), they works buyer representatives. They work as 2 nd hand of buyers and make connection buyer to factory for the purpose of producing buyers standard Goods. 3 Therefore, QAD is the important part of the garments manufacturing. 3.QA DEFINATION Quality assurance is a way of preventing mistakes and defects in manufactured products and avoiding problems when delivering products or services to customers. Quality assurance is defined as all those possible planned and systematic actions necessary to provide adequate confidence that a product or service will satisfy given requirements for quality. 4. QA AUDITOR STANDARD WORKING PROCESS QAD, DQA and QA activities are: Sample inspection against Customer SOP, TP, Manual, Scratches ↓ Store trims card check, Implement 5S and FIFO, 8 wastage lean. ↓ Fabric, Trims & accessories test & check, maintain QMS system properly ↓ Fabric, Trims & accessories inspection & audit. ↓ GSM check, shade segregation ↓ Fabric Shrinkage Test ↓ Size set check ↓ PPM ↓ Marker check. ↓ Marker check and correction ↓ 4 Cutting relaxation, lay, spreading check ↓ Cutting component Quality and measurements check & audit ↓ Maintain Buyer/Customer General Instruction (SOP,TP/PDM,Sample etc.) ↓ Layout inspection, maintain QMS system properly. ↓ Incoming Cut panel quality and Measurements check ↓ Two-time and style wise accessories check ↓ 4 Time TLS (Traffic Light System) method Follow ↓ Follow RFT(Right In First Time) method ↓ Follow TDR(Total Defect Reduce) method ↓ Follow FIFO( First In First Out) method ↓ Ensure and implement 5S and 8 wastage lean manufacturing ↓ In process audit ↓ conducted 1st pcs/ style wise 1st bundle output report ↓ conducted Initial inline inspection & DPI. ↓ Two time process and machine check ↓ Hourly final audit by measurement 5 ↓ Implement 5S,8 wastage lean manufacturing, FIFO in finishing ↓ Incoming washing Goods shade and measurements, dimensional change check ↓ Finishing layout follow-up ↓ Button pull check ↓ Broken needle check, Metal pass, moisture check. ↓ Accessories compliance(SKU,Price Ticket ratio etc. Check) ↓ Every day final audit ↓ Pre-final inspection ↓ Final Inspection and closing. 5.QA QUALITY Top Quality Guru W. Edwards Daming said about Quality that quality is everyone responsibility. However, others Quality Guru Joseph M.Juran said about quality that quality is the fitness for use. Quality word wise meaning Q:Quality U:Unity A:Active 6 L:Liability I:Intelligence T:Truthfulness Y:Youthful Quality Assurance Audit have above those quality with smartness, problem solving skills, process developing skills, leadership skills, brainstorming skills and so on. 6. QA DEVELOPMENT SKILLS • Garments Manufacture based Skills: 1. Sample verification against Customer SOP, Manual, TP/PDM, and others instruction. 2.Fabric quality, classification, fault, fabric & garments test report justification skills. 3.Trims and Accessories quality, classification & fault justification skills. 4.Cutting procedure, GSM, Skewing, bowing, relaxation, shrinkage, lay height, marker & pattern verification, spreading check, cut panel check and measurements skills etc. 5.Sewing input cut panel measurements with before wash and sewing allowance, incoming trims and accessories check by trims card. Garments making layout check, sewing all marking and pattern check style and size wise Conduct an implement TLS( Traffic Light System), RFT( Right First Time), TDR ( Total Defect Reduce), 5S ,FIFO, Lean manufacturing 8 wastage etc., button pulls test, bond test, stitch strengths test, maintain broken needle policy and label attach policy, fabric nature wise needles selection, Follow sample, TP/PDM, SOP and other instructions to proper sewing, sewing DPI, Initial Inline etc. 7 6.Finishing Shade, measurement & dimensional change verify after received wash garments and before start finishing, finishing quality check layout followup, 2hr audit, metal check, moisture check, proper trims and accessories attach, follow approved folding method, verify SKU, Barcode, Prize ticket, cartoon sticker day final audit, pre-final audit etc. • Customer/Buyer Based Skills: I. Customer/ Buyer SOP(Standard Operating Procedure), Manual such as Quality Manual, QA Manual, Product Safety Manual, Pattern Matching Manual, Label attach Manual, Product safety manual etc. II. Customer/Buyer DCL ( Defect Classification List) III. Customer/Buyer TP(Technical File), PDM( Product Development Manual) IV. Customer/Buyers Special instruction about garments produce. V. Customer/Buyer based QMS( Quality Management System) & Technical audit. • Defect Based Skills 1.Appearance Defect 2.Construction defect 3.Trims and accessories defect 4.Fabric defect 5.Measurement defect 6.Color defect 7.Packing defect • Root cause analyses and CAP making skills I. 5Why 2How II. 80/20 rules III. Fishbone/ Cause & effect Diagram IV. PDCA 8 V. Problem Tress • Language & Computer Based Skills: I. Fluent at English verbally and written II. Have to Skills about Microsoft Office program such as MS Word, MS Excel, MS PowerPoint, Teams etc. III. Have to skills about E-mail handling, browsing & basic Windows Operating System. • Quality Improvement tools skills: 1.QA auditor must have knowledge about quality tools: I. Flow diagram II. Brainstorming III. Cause-effect diagram ( Fishbone diagram) IV. Data collection V. Graphs and charts VI. Pareto analysis (80/20 rules) VII. Scatter diagram VIII. Histogram IX. Box plot X. Stratification • Continuous Process and products improvement Skills: QA auditor must have knowledge about TQM, Six Sigma & Lean manufacturing. I. 5S II. PDCA( Plan, Do, Check & Act) III. DAMIC IV. 8 Wastage (Muda) V. JIT(Just In Time) VI. Kanban(Pull System) VII. Kaizen(Continuous Improvement) VIII. Gemba(The real place) 9 IX. Poka Yoka ( Mistake Proofing) X. VSM(Value Stream Mopping) XI. TPS ( Toyota Production System) XII. TPM(Total Productive Maintenance) XIII. SMART Goal( Six big losses) XIV. Factory assessment & Evolution XV. SOWT analyses etc. Above all, if any QA have above those skills he/she can develop process and Product quality very easily and easy way. 7.QA TRAINING FOR DEVELOPMENT I discussed about 5. QA Development Skills point, all the Skills of QA. If this skill can capture any QA. This can develop any Garment manufacturing easily. Unskilled QA do not ensure and process development. That’s why QA have to learn and capture below this point in practically and theories. QA have to take training about: 1.Garments manufacturing Quality Assurance skills 2.Customer/Buyer based skills. 3.Root cause analyses and CAP making Skills 4.Languages and Computer based skills 5.Quality improvement tools skills 6.Continuous improvement skills. Here, 6 point I discussed about Point 6 section. 8.STORE QA: Store QA plays vital rule of garment manufacturing because any order all fabric, trims & accessories come first to him. So, if he failed to justify those quality, 10 ultimately Products quality will be spoil. That’s why Store QA have to alert about verify those quality, quantities, faults and so on. Store QA Rule and Job responsibility: I. Accurate Inventory check, verify trims card. II. Fabric quality, shade, Shrinkage, bowing, skewing & GSM verify III. Fabric Inspection based on 4/2.5/10 point etc. IV. Fabric test and fabric test report verity V. Trims and accessories quality, quantity, faults check by 10% inspecting with zero tolerance VI. Trims and accessories test and keep test report. VII. Inspection fail and reject goods keep red zone marked area for brunt or back to supplier. VIII. Inspection pass Goods keep on rack by tagging Bin card. IX. Style and size wise accurate Fabric, trims & accessories supply to the production floor. X. Follow zone wise Goods keeping method XI. Implement 5S, FIFO and QMS system properlty. 9. CUTTING QA: Cutting QA plays another vital rule in garments manufacturing. If cutting is wrong sewing & finishing will be wrong. That’s why cutting QA have to ensure proper cutting before cutting Goods. Cutting QA rules and job responsibility: 1.Verify fabric nature, GSM, Shrinkage, Skewing, Bowing etc. 2.Ensure proper fabric relaxation 3.Marker inspection before cutting 4.Collect and review Fabric test report. 5.Fabric shade segregation and batch wise put sticker 6.Fabric Spreading inspection 11 7.Fabric lay follow up. 8.Cutting components quality and measurements check with sewing allowance and before wash measurement. 9.Ensure cutting QMS and product safety. If Cutting QA maintain and do his duty properly, Sewing & Finishing will be good. 10.SEWING QA: Sewing is the production field, if Sewing QA is skills full, The sewing quality increased automatically. That’s why Sewing QA rule is the important part. Sewing QA must have to know about Buyer/ customer acceptation. Beside he have to know about defect: 1.Appearance Defect 2.Construction defect 3.Trims and accessories defect 4.Fabric defect 5.Measurement defect 6.Color defect 7.Packing defect. Beside, sewing QA have to knowledge about Fabric nature, thickness and thingness because stitch tension, needles size and thread count. Sewing QA rules and job responsibility: 1.Measures all in coming cutting components with Sewing Allowance and before wash measurement. 12 2.Incoming trims and accessories check by trims card. 3.Garments making layout check, 3 times machine check, critical process mock up ensure. 4.Sewing all marking and pattern check style and size wise 5.Conduct an implement TLS( Traffic Light System), RFT( Right First Time), TDR ( Total Defect Reduce) 6.Implement FIFO, 5S, Lean manufacturing 8 wastage etc., 7.Button pull test, bond test, stitch strengths test, 8.Maintain broken needle policy and label attach policy 9. Fabric nature wise needles selection, correct thread selection as per trims card. 10.Follow sample, TP/PDM, SOP and other instructions to proper sewing, 11.Conduct sewing DPI, Initial Inline etc. 12.Sewing QMS system property implement. 11.FINISHING QA: 1. Finishing Shade, measurement & dimensional change verify after received wash garments and before start finishing, 2.Finishing quality check layout follow-up, 3. 2hr audit, metal check, moisture check, 4.Proper trims and accessories attach Check 5.Follow approved folding method, verify SKU, 6.Barcode, Prize ticket, cartoon sticker verify 7.Conduct day final audit, pre-final audit etc. 8. Maintain QMS system, FIFO, 5S method properly. 13 12.DQA & IMPORTANCE OF DQA IN GARMENT MANUFACTURING: DQA does all QA activities Sample Follow up section to Final shipment. He have to be perfect and well skilled about all section wise standard. DQA Job responsibility are: • Collect order file from merchant • DQA have to knowledge about QMS, Buyer standard, DCL etc. other above discussed QA skills. • Collect Section wise update such as production, plan, inspection etc.) • Verify fabric, trims & accessories and its test and inspection report. • Verify trims card and sample as per buyer SOP, TP, PDM, Order file etc. • Arranging a meeting with the buyer QC and giving the necessary tasks for the PP meeting. • Implement buyers standard in all area • Will be collect order summary from merchant/ planning. • Collect necessary documents for study from merchant/Buyer. • Study PPS, PPC, Tech pack, Buyers SOP, BOM, PO Sheet, Measurement by cross check to analyze risk & important point. • Collect necessary test & inspection report of materials. Then make CAP against of result. • Pattern check with above buyer M ok spec & test/inspection report. • Marker check with ok pattern based of fab inspection report. • Review cut panels measurement report. • Size set review with technician, QC & QA with b/4 & after iron measurement report to make CAP for bulk. • Call out PPM to conduct with related department to point to point discussion. • Follow up fabric in-house to shipment. • Follow up quality requirements in Cutting, Sewing, and finishing in the factory. • To follow up as per buyer’s manual, SOP, TP, PDM and quality sample. To ensure sample quality and timely delivery to the buyer. • Check all the quality points especially in Garments Sewing to Finish. • To ensure Section Wise Quality Inspection. • The last message of the buyer regarding quality control is reported in the related section. 14 • To ensure product quality before final inspection. • Arrange & approved the file before the inspection. • Ensure everything is in the QC/QA file. • Ensure Sample Approval from Buying House. • Communicate Buyer QC with quality issues. • Implement to buyer quality control manual in the garment factory (all Sections). • Work as a representative of Buyer QC in a Garment Factory • Follow up quality requirement in Cutting, Sewing and finishing in factory. • Conduct in-line inspection and assist the buyer representative in the Final inspection in the Factory. • Handle and execute all PP Meeting and Pilot Run meeting • In-line inspection of every lot of sewing and finishing section. • Communicate with the fabric department regarding the fabric quality and assist the fabric QA to ensure online quality control the fabric. • Approve the fabric and all accessories for the final bulk production. • Rectify the sewing defect and ensure the accurate shape and design of the product as per the client’s requirement. • Checking out all the accessories in-house for bulk production. • Check the fitting of the garment as per the buyer measurement chart. • Checking and matching the accessories such as sewing threads, buttons, care labels, size labels, main labels, photo board polybags, etc. comparing with a trim card as per customer requirements. • Maintain all work and report of buying house QC, work on behalf of buying house QC. • Ensure Finishing, folding, picking, cartooning and others. • DQA check garments product using all quality criteria, fill up all QC inspection checklist. • GPQ bears special authority about any quality issue by buyer QC, in absence of buyer QC. DQA is a good decision-maker in any quality parameters of the garments industry. That’s why DQA is most important person in garments manufacturing. 15 13.RULE OF LEADERSHIP OF QA DEVELOPMENT : QA Leader means Quality Assurance Leader, A perfect man he has vast knowledge about quality assurance and improvement. My discussed all skills must have one QA Leader and also he have knowledge about how to manage all QA in garments manufacturing. He able to trains all QA and Monitors all QA how the assures Goods standard and RCA and give CAPA for proper solution. He calibrate his all QA and analyses their skills, then he find out his QA leaking and weak point and teach them to develop and overcome their weakness. He follows his QA reports, advancement & what they do. If any claim call out, he searches the root QA reports, Follow up & assurance. Then he find out what is the DQA faults. Such as One customers callout for uneven sleeve in garments. After receiving this callout, QA leader, Call Cutting QA , Sewing QA, Finishing QA and DQA to show him their inline and follow up report about this style. By collecting all report he analyses all section wise QA report. If all report okay, he thinks all section QA did fake report, they did not follow up properly just make fake report. If its true they did not did their duties and responsibility properly just pass time and make fake report. QA leader have to follow their activities strongly. And also Leader have to trains them. If they not change, QA Leader have to change this QA. Otherwise, if QA leader find out cutting QA problem then he trains this QA and finally alert about this issue and to maintain his duties & responsibility property, so that they will not make mistake in future. QA Leader make chain on store QA, Cutting QA, Sewing QA, Finishing QA to DQA for only purpose of produce customer satisfied Product, Zero defect product, timely shipment, to reduce, process time, costing, short shipment and rejection etc. 16 Beside QA Leaders trains his QA about Good dress up, attitude, smartness and also about: 1.Garment manufacturing based QA skills 2.Buyer/Customer based QA skills 3.DCL based Skills 4.RCA and CAP making skills 5.Quality improvement tools using skills 6.Continues improvement and QMS based Skills 7.English Language and Computer based skills. Which I discussed about point 6 QA skills section. QA leader utilize his QA, trains his QA, develop his QA and ensure and improve Goods quality by his QA. 14.CONCLUSION: After lots of discussion, Skilled QA is most important for garment manufacturing. From this 7 skills such as 1.Garment manufacturing based QA skills 2.Buyer/Customer based QA skills 3.DCL based Skills 4.RCA and CAP making skills 5.Quality improvement tools using skills 6.Continues improvement and QMS based Skills 7.English Language and Computer based skills. 17 One Garments manufacturing based skills found on QA not perfectly other skills not found. That’s why our QA team do not catch any fault or wrong properly, do not improve any process properly, do not RCA properly, do not handover buyer satisfied Product, do not assure any process and technical issue properly. Therefore, To produce buyer satisfied Product, To do onetime delivery, do develop process by reduce process time, to reduce costing, to enhance factory image, there are no alternative option without Quality Assurance Department and Skilled QA. To achieve all those we need skilled QA in Garments Manufacturing. We have to stress to develop QA skills.
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Washing Points – Dry and Wet Processing SOP
Washing Points – Dry and Wet Processing SOP
AEO Dry and Wet Processing SOP Objectives:
1. To ensure consistent quality
2. to avoid ripping and smelly denim Standard Operating Procedure:
1. Dry processing
i. Dry processing guideline should be made by DP supervisors for each style, including application details, relevant tools, and precautions if needed.
ii. Dry processing target should be provided to each worker, and be renewed daily. Target must has hangtag with relevant style information, application details, & sign-off by supervisor.
iii. For whisker, sanding, and PP spray/rub, each workers ha to set up his own 2 pieces of DP target every day when shift starts, and to be approved by supervisor. One will be kept for working and one to be sent for further DP and wet processing. The garment should be back to the worker and review with supervisor to see if necessary adjustment to be made.
iv. Inspection references should be in 2pcs, one maximum & one minimum to show the acceptable range. QC record should be documented with details such as style details, production details, and types/quantity of defects. And inspectors should able to identify correlated worker with proceeded garments.
v. Whisker templates must be properly graded
vi. Sand paper changing record should be properly documented.
vii. Placement of localized sanding should be marked by 2lines, which show where the feathering started and ended
viii. Additional marking is needed for knee points, in order to identify the placement for knee hotspots, starbursts, and back knee whiskers.
ix. Destroy holes should be graded according to sizes. If destroy is applied manually, chalk marking is needed for placement. If it is done automatically by machine, graded template is needed.
2. Wet processing:
i. Bleach: • Controlled bleaching must be carried out to avoid bleaching at too high temperature • Please refer to below part#6 for internal quality test for physical strength on tensile & tear.
ii. Anti-chlor: • Appropriate and adequate amount of anti-chlor should be used. • Laundry is advised to check the residual chlorine of bath after neutralization to avoid residual chlorine remained on garments to avoid bleach smell and storage tendering.
iii. Resin: • Type: Low formaldehyde or formaldehyde free resin is recommended. Must be able to produce finished products to fulfill AEO’s requirement, i.e. lower than 75 ppm by ISO 14184-1. • Dosage: follow chemical supplier’s recommendation and recipe must be able to fulfill AEO’s requirement • Catalyst: follow chemical supplier’s recommendation and recipe must be able to fulfill AEO’s requirement. In case of solid / crystal catalyst, laundry must ensure proper storage of catalyst to avoid hydration / crystallization to avoid wrong dosage. • Curing condition: follow chemical supplier’s recommendation and recipe must be able to fulfill AEO’s requirement. • Tumble Dryer: vendors need to provide temperature checking record every month to AEO. • Curing oven: vendors need to provide temperature checking record every month to AEO. Curing condition must follow chemical supplier’s recommendation and fulfill AEO’s requirement. • Wet pick up: laundry needs to follow chemical supplier’s recommendation and keep record of wet pick up of every batch of garments. • Flash curing: laundry is not suggested to use flash curing. Intermediate drying of garments prior to curing is recommended. • Formaldehyde testing: recommend laundry to carry out in-house formaldehyde testing. Vendor must have passed BV reports for bulk. AEO wash team will random pick bulk goods for formaldehyde and physical testing.
iv. Sulphur dyed fabrics or garments: • pH of finished garment: sulphur dyed fabrics / garments do have variable amount of labile sulphur which could be easily converted to sulphuric acid upon storage in acidic and humid conditions. Therefore, it is suggested these garments to be finished with a final pH larger than 7 to avoid storage tendering issue. High risk products include sulphur black dyed by traditional sulphur powder dyeing system, sulphur dye fabrics / garments with acid wash, strong bleach and resin spray or dipping etc. Neutralization with sodium acetate or preferably buffer system is recommended to ensure the pH stability during storage.
v. Anti-ozonate softener: • Unfixed indigo is easily to be oxidized by ozone in air and caused yellowing. Anti-ozontae softener is generally recommended for finishing the garments. In particular to heavy bleached garments, proper removal of unfixed indigo prior to finishing is important to ensure proper color fastness to ozone, even though suitable anti-ozonate softener will be used e.g. Velvetol 8.
vi. Light Fastness improver: • If the light fastness cannot achieve AEO’s requirement and laundry needs to use light fastness improver or UV blocking agent, laundry needs to inform AEO and provide clearly written information in the wash recipe with chemical name, pH, dosage and temperature.
vii. OBA: ( Optical Brightening agent ) • Unless agreed by AEO, laundry should not be allowed to add OBA into any of AEO’s denim garments; especially on chambray shirts that we usually found vendors added OBA into the shade bands, might be unintentionally. In case of exception such as white bleached garments which OBA usually needed to be added, laundry needs to provide clearly written information in the wash recipe with chemical name, pH, dosage and temperature. For other products such as chambray, garment dyeing (including neon colors) etc, laundry needs to seek AEO’s approval before putting AEO into any sample and bulk products.
viii. Product safety: • all dyes and chemicals used in laundry must fulfill latest AEO’s RSL requirement. Vendors needed to download, read carefully and check with all dyes and chemical suppliers to fulfill such requirement. Laundry can provide AEO’s RSL to chemical suppliers and they should be able to provide conformation certificates. To make our products more environmental friendly and safer, mills and laundry is suggested to use chemical suppliers with such kind of certificates to fulfill REACH, Oeko-Tex Standard 100 and GB18401 standards. These are well known industry norms and renowned chemical suppliers should be able to fulfill these requirement. AEO has been proactively collecting such information from our fabric mills and laundries.
3. Machinery:
i. Tumble dryers and curing oven monthly record: AEO requires all laundry to provide their monthly tumble dryers and curing oven checking record to AEO. These will be uploaded to our intranet website at the end of each month.
ii. Temperature of tumble dryers has to be checked 3times a day by infrared thermometer — before the 1st shift, 2nd shift, and end of the day. While temperature checking, infrared thermometer should always point to garment, and measure 3points per checking.
iii. In case of defective machinery, obvious notice must be attached. such machinery could not be used to produce AEO products until is has been fixed & verified.
4. Non-destructive testing:
i. In view of ripping cases happened to our products, particular on fly areas on our jeans; AEO Quality and Wash team will random pick any bulk garments subject to physical testing, by comparing before home laundering garments and garments after at least 3 home laundering to determine its quality and usability.
5. Frequency of laundry’s in-house inspection
i. Lab has to maintain standard atmosphere for conditioning — optimum environment condition as temperature 21OC & relative humidity 65%.
ii. Laundry have to control product’s quality performance regarding (1) Rubbing Fastness, (2) Tensile Strength, (3) Tear strength, (4) Odor, and (5) pH value.
iii. In order to avoid garment wastage, laundry can add panels into bulk execution for testing. All panels must have actual finishing on both dry and wet process, and length should be similar to actual style.
iv. All inspection/testing must be recorded properly. Agent team and our QA and wash team can review inspection report when visiting laundries. • Rubbing Fastness: Testing Method ISO105-X12
Both Warp and Weft directions must be tested • Tensile Strength: Test Method ISO 13934
Both Warp and Weft must be tested
Areas with most aggressive DP or resin must be tested • Tear Strength: Test Method ISO 13937 – Both Warp and Weft must be tested – Areas with most aggressive DP or resin must be tested • pH: Test Method ISO 3071 – cut test specimen from hip whisker area, thigh, and base shade • For Rubbing Fastness, Tensile Strength, Test Strength, and pH, at least 1 sampling from bulk per day per style must be tested. • Odor: (Carried out in 2 phases with actual garment samples.) –
Phase 1: 1 sampling per style per day, sealed in plastic bag and checked for smell after 5 days. Garment can be released to bulk if no issue is recognized. In case whole bulk wash will soon be completed & handover date is less than 5days, extra garment can be sealed for odor checking after 48hours. –
Phase 2: 1 sampling per style per week, sealed in plastic bag and checked for smell after 1 month. Garment can be released to bulk if no issue is recognized. – Please note that smell or odor typically concentrates is areas that contain multiple layers of fabric.
v. On top of minimum frequency, extra sampling and lab testing is necessary according to fabric and formula nature such as, but not limited to, the following:
(1) pH against Sulphur black denim,
(2) physical strength against destructive wash,
(3) rubbing fastness test against minimal wash-off and,
(4) odor check against bleach/ozone.
Vendor should evaluate capacity of their in-house lab & set up proper testing frequency.
vi. Vendor need to set up standard procedure of daily operation in order to ensure laundry can identify correlated bulk garments in case there is a quality failure. This should include items such as separate storage according to date, work shifts (morning/afternoon), and/or loading. More detailed separation can provide convenience and avoid additional processing to sort out actual garments with problems.
vii. Upon recognizing quality failure, laundry needs to define if problem garments can or cannot be re-fixed, or proportion between them • Depending on nature of failure, laundry should experiment re-fixing a small loading then reconfirm appearance, measurement, as well as associated test performance. Then applies on all affected garments after determining the necessary corrections. • For re-fixed garments, garments must be retested again per each re-fixing loading. Sampling should be in garment form in order to reflect the quality accurately.
viii. After fixing the quality failure(s), control for subsequent bulk (if any) needs to be enhanced; laundry need to pull at least 4times by different time through out the day. Then frequency can be back to normal if not recoding any additional failure.
ix. Vendor needs to report all quality failures to AEO together with relevant testing records. Additionally vendors should provide action plan to deal with each unique case with consideration of potential factors, such as fabric, wash, style, and machinery. AEO QA and wash team will pull and seal samples from retouched garments and submit for testing at BV.
6. EIM scoring ( Environmental Impact Measure)
i. EIM scoring is required for order quantities over 10K units but is encouraged to submit for every program that goes into production.
ii. For standardization on evaluation, please input the weight in SIZE 6 for Women’s & SIZE 32/32 for Men’s
iii. Data of EIM scoring should come from either shade band or pilot run, in order to reflect actual bulk situation.
iv. We have set timelines to collect the EIM scoring of critical seasons as below.
SP Middle Sept,
HO: End October SUM Early Nov HO February BTS Middle March HO: April HOL End July :
HO: August v. Pls align the file name as “style #_factory year-month-date” (example “3334_kenpark_2018-05-05.docx”) vi. AEO wash team to go through the EIM scoring against actual bulk formula during regular laundry visit
Interview Questions and Answers for Apparel Job: Some important interview questions have presented below with their answers:
Interview Questions and Answers for Apparel Job: Some important interview questions have presented below with their answers:
1. What is Garment?
A garment is a piece of clothing.
2. What is a sample in garments?
The garment which is needed for bulk production or which is used through the process sequence is called a sample.
3. What is the counter sample in garments?
The sample which is followed by the approved sample is called the counter sample.
4. What is the approved sample?
According to all the required specifications, the sample which is approved by the buyer is called the approved sample.
5. What is the pattern?
It is a hard paper which is made by following all the specifications and individual components.
6. What is a production pattern?
It is a pattern of a particular style with net dimension and allowance.
7. What is the working pattern?
It is a pattern of a particular style with the net dimension. Production pattern = working pattern + allowance
8. What is a marker?
Marker is a thin paper that contains all the components of all sizes of a particular style of garments.
9. What is lining?
A generic term for fabrics that are used to cover the inner surfaces of products, especially the inner face employs different materials from the outer surface.
10. What is interlining?
It is one kind of accessories that is used between two layers of fabric in garments to support, reinforce, and control areas of garments and to retain actual shape. It may be applied to base fabric by sewing and bonding.
11. What is lay?
It is a stack of fabric lengths made in preparation for cutting.
12. What is the ligne number?
It is the measuring unit of the button. It indicated the diameter of the button. If the diameter increases, the ligne number also increases.
13. What is L/C?
L/C means the letter of credit. It is a commitment by an opening bank on behalf of the importer in favor of the exporter that the bills were drawn by them on the importer countries covering the shipment of specified items and quality of goods within the stated period. It will be paid in exchange for documents under certain items and conditions.
14. What is an invoice?
After sending the garments goods to the importer country, the documents mentioning the price is sent to the buyer for collecting is called invoice.
15. What is quota?
It is an agreement between governments of the importer country and the exporter country. In detail, it is the quantities of garments of different categories upon the manufacturing countries according to the business policy.
16. What is FOB?
FOB means free on board. If the price of the goods is mentioned in the invoice without transport cost then it is called FOB.
17. What is C&F?
C&F means cost and freight. If the price of the goods is mentioned in the invoice including transport cost then it is called C&F.
18. What is CIF?
CIF means cost, insurance, and freight. If the price of the goods is mentioned in the invoice including transport cost and insurance cost then it is called CIF.
19. What is a category?
A category is a number that indicated what type of fabric is used for making the particular garment and it also indicated the type of this garment.
20. What is the face of fabric?
The surface of the fabric is intended to be seen because it presents s better appearance than the other side due to its characteristics i.e. weaves, luster, finish, etc. in many fabrics, especially industrial fabrics, face and back are identical.
21. What is faced cloth?
A term sometimes applied to the fabrics that have a separate set of warp or filling yarns on the back of the cloth i.e. pile fabric, flannel fabric.
22. What is fusing?
The term generally refers to partial melting. In bonding, fabric layers are joined together by fusion of an adhesive under heat and pressure.
23. What is the abbreviation of G/D?
G/D stands for grams per denier.
24. What is gauge?
In knitted fabrics, it is a measure of fineness or number of wales per unit of width across the fabric. Higher gauge numbers indicate finer texture.
25. What is grading? When different sizes of patterns are made from the master pattern of the garment is called grading.
